Contents
- My engine runs fine, but has no power in gear.
- My raw-water cooled engine is overheating. What can I do?
- I think I've reached my limit. Where can I find a good mechanic?
- I need a part for my Atomic 4 and it's not available locally.
- Should I use one or two head gaskets?
- Why is there no rear main seal?
- Is the Atomic 4 an old tractor engine or an old jeep engine?
- What is the size of the standard A4 propeller?
My engine runs fine, but has no power in gear.
Possible problems:
- One or more cylinders not firing. (Pull plug wires, one at a time. If rpm doesn't change, that plug isn't doing any work.)
- Bad wires or plugs
- Two plug wires are switched. (Amazingly enough, the engine idles pretty well in this condition.)
- Stuck valve
- Badly tuned
- Mis-set points
- Bad points
- Bad condensor.
- Bad timing (Has the distributor been turned?)
- Prop is fouled. (When was the last time you scraped it?)
- Shaft is fouled at the cutless bearing. (With the transmission in neutral, can you turn it easily by hand?)
- Choke doen't open all the way. (Check at the carburetor, sometimes the cable clamp slips.)
- Plugged exhaust. (Back pressure will reduce the air flow, too.)
- Bad carb adjustment
- Dirty carburetor
- Distributor advance is rusty and not advancing
My raw-water cooled engine is overheating. What can I do?
- Check the impeller, it may have lost blades or its resiliancy.
- Check for a blockage in the water flow.
Check for scaling inside the engine. You can clean it out with muriatic acid or RYDLYME (formerly called Marsolve), or you can take parts to a radiator shop and let the boil it out. The manifold is a likely trouble spot.
I think I've reached my limit. Where can I find a good mechanic?
Check the list of Atomic4Mechanics.
I need a part for my Atomic 4 and it's not available locally.
Check the list of Atomic4PartsSuppliers.
Should I use one or two head gaskets?
The traditional answer is to use two head gaskets. Westerbeke (the owner of Universal Motors) issued Service Bulletin #223 on May 15, 1996 explains the switch from the use of 2 fibre head gaskets (part #263776) to 1 powdered-graphite head gasket (part #200452). The powdered-graphite head gasket is also available elsewhere as Victor #3647g, so you don't have to order from a Westerbeke dealer. If you order this gasket as a Victor part rather than a Westerbeke part, you'll receive a notice suggesting two head gaskets.
So, who's advice to follow? RobertHess suggests that one head gasket is sufficient if the engine previously had compression in the 90 to 110 psi range. If the compression was higher, using two gaskets will lower it by about 5 psi.
Service Bulletin #223 http://www3.telus.net/Atomic_4_Eng_Service/Universal_Service_Bulletin_223.htm also shows the bolt-tightening sequence for the head bolts. You should follow this sequence exactly. RobertHess also recommends that you retorque the head while hot (though Westerbeke says this isn't necessary) especially if you've used two head gaskets.
Why is there no rear main seal?
I suppose because, since the engine is installed at an angle, there's no need for one.
Is the Atomic 4 an old tractor engine or an old jeep engine?
Neither. It was especially designed for marine use. See RobertHess' History of the Universal Motor Company for the details.
What is the size of the standard A4 propeller?
(Reproduced from the discussion threads)
"The original prop on an Alberg 30 with an Atomic 4 was a 13x7 two-blade. The shaft is 7/8". That's what I have and it seems to work sufficiently well, cruising at 1700 to 1800 rpm. I know the prop experts say this is too much prop, and a smaller prop will let the engine get further up its power curve. And I know they say there's too little tip clearance in the aperture and it will cause cavitation. But in spite of that, it seems to work pretty well."-George Dinwiddie
References...The Propeller Handbook: The Complete Reference for Choosing, Installing, and Understanding Boat Propellers by Dave Gerr
